Popayan – Silvia – Inza

February 8, 2010

Because of all the rain, I was concerned about the ride to Tierradentro and beyond…I knew it was many miles of dirt roads, and it haad been raining for days…Cata offered to let me leave my luggage at their house…whahoo! I love a light bike!

So I rearranged all my stuff, and off I went!

Cata’s Dad gave me directions to San Andres (Tierradentro)…I should be there in two hours…

Isn’t Colombia gorgeous?




Um…I’m in Silvia,  and I have been riding for more than two hours…

The scenery is so spectacular, and  am having one of those magical riding days, so I really don’t care if I am lost…

But every once in a while the sky threatens…

Weird landscape…what the heck is it? At least it photographed well…
[3-22-10 update: These plants are Frailejón or Fraylejón. They are a high altitude plant native to Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela. There are a variety of species. For the full Wikipedia brain dump, click here.

Thanks to Mauricio for telling me what they are. Fascinating!!]

I stop in front of this place to take some pics…it’s like heaven on earth. Well, Next thing I know thee farmer is coming out of the finca and downt he drive…I aam not threatened, rather, I dont want to bother him. SO I explain that I think where he llive is the most beautiful place on earth and I wanted to take some pics, and  I am sorry I have disturbed him…well he asks me the A#1 question of my trip, am I traveling alone? yes. He wishes me a great trip, says to take care of myself, shakes my hand, and heads back up the drive. Typical encounter with these wonderful people.

My road:

Oh yeah, I stop for gas in the middle of nowhere…there’s a store next to the gas station office…they sell…nothing that I need.

The fabulously elaborate and really hard to understand map of the area. I was confused… even more so after looking at the map.


So I roll into a little town, and find a little hostel. It’s 8000 pesos for the night ($4.00) Why do I stay here? Because it’s 4:30, I am tires, I have no idea how close I am to Tierradentro, and the woman at the hostel has one ear and seems to have a hard time understanding me, and I her, and I am scared to go on as I have not seen another town for 3+ hours riding in the back roads of Colombia, and I DEFINITELY do not want to ride here after dark…

So I stop. It’s cheap, and although I am scared to take a shower,  it’s cheap.

Note to self: Do NOT get up in the middle of the night and turn on lights…you may be electrocuted.

Best to use the flashlight.

My solution? Go to bed so dang early (8 pm) it doesn’t matter how icky the hotel room is. It’s cheap.


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