Well, the short story is that I got sick and got taken in by strangers.
I had my second bacteria of the trip (read: chronic diarrhea), and also developed a bad cough. An acquaintance whisked me off to his Doctor, then home to his wife, and I stayed at Hipocampo for a week. Pepe and Carmen are wonderful people, and I spent a week in their compound resting, recuperating, and eating “clean” food. They have their own well, own tillable land, and are “off the grid” (read: barely any electricity, never mind Internet!). Carmen is a painter, Pepe is a scholar. They are close to 70 and have led very full and interesting lives. They opened my eyes to a great many aspects of Peruvian culture.
I am now in Nazca visiting the famous Nazca lines. I have found a good, CHEAP hotel with free Wifi, and I am trying to get caught up on the blog.